A few of my Hibiscus
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Cutting Propagation
First Method: Take hardwood
cuttings about 15 cm (6 in) long and remove all leaves. Do not remove
any eyes or green buds that are present. Then scrape the end of the
cutting up 2-3 cm (an inch) from the bottom to expose more cambium
layer. Prepare a large pot by putting 2-3 cm (1 inch) of gravel or small
stones in the bottom for drainage, then a perlite, peat and sand
mixture. Then insert 10-20 of the cuttings into the mixture. They seem
to develop better when there are many cuttings in the pot. When the
callus has formed on the cambium layer, in 2 to 4 weeks remove and plant
each one separately in a tube filled with soil, peat and perlite or
vermiculite or let them establish their root system. To remove rooted
cuttings without damaging their root system, separate them in a bucket
of clean water and then pot on.
There are many types of propagating units available to the home gardener
or commercial growers to use. If there is no unit available to you, then
plastic bags can be used to cover your cuttings. Use four stakes in your
pot with the desired number of cuttings. Cover with the plastic bag and
hold the bag in place with a strong rubber band. About four small air
holes should be made in the plastic. Place in a warm position, not in
the full sun. Second Method:
Hardwood Cutting Propagation - by Allan Little
Hibiscus strike readily from cuttings and will normally root in 4-6
weeks. Hardwood cuttings are usually taken in Spring-Summer (all year
round if you're lucky to have a hot-house).
Use straight wood, pencil thickness or a little larger. Remove all the
leaves with secateurs and trim to approximately 10-15cm (4-6 inches)
long. With a sharp knife or secateurs, make a cut at about 45 degrees
just below the eye or node at the base of the cutting. The base can be
"wounded" by taking a sliver off the stem to expose the cambium layer
1-2 inches on one or two sides, a procedure aimed at increasing the area
from which roots will be produced.
The next step before potting is to apply a rooting hormone in powder,
liquid or gel form. This step is optional but, if used, will promote
earlier striking and a more vigorous root growth. The cuttings are
usually placed in individual propagating tubes or small pots.
Place cuttings in the shadehouse to protect them from wind and to
prevent their drying out. Cuttings will root quite well in coarse river
sand but the risk of this drying out is high and it is safer to add a
little peat or perlite to the medium to hold moisture. However, various
mixtures of perlite, peat and perlite, peat and sand, etc., have all
been successful.
Once the cuttings have struck, they can be potted on into larger pots
using a good quality potting mix.
When taking cuttings for rootstocks, use albo-lacinatus (Ruth Wilcox),
Landersii (Pride of Hankins), Archerii or Pink Psyche. |